GR10: Our story
Part 2: Castel de Vergio - Vizavona
Saturday June 7nd: Castel de Vergio - refuge de Manganu
Statistics:distance: 17 km
up: 670 m, down: 475 m,
weather: most sunny, on the way some fog and a little shower.
The route starts with a short descent in the woods on the other side of the road to "chemin de Ronde du Vallu Niellu" - a traject at the same altitude. After some time the route suddenly turned right and started zigzagging up to Bocca San Petru. After the col the route continues climbing to Bocca a Renta via ridge de Serra San Tumasgiu. During this part of the climb we're surrounded by clouds from time to time. The climb from Bocca San Petru to ridge de Serra San Tumasgiu is not extremely steep but it is tiring when one did not have a break at bocca San Petru. When I finally arrive at the ridge, I see that next to Edwin also Jacqueline and Alex, a couple we have met several times before at the refuges, are at the rigde. After a short break we continue together to lavu di Ninu. Here we have another break before we continue via a time to time swampy path to the bergeries de Vaccaghja. Here we buy some goat cheese and enjoy our lunch break. After lunch we descend to the Pianu di Camputile and after crossing the plane we climb to refuge de Maganu. Here we find a nice spot for our tent, while Jacqueline and Alex sleep in the refuge. In front of the refuge we enjoy the view while sitting in the sun. For diner we have a typical Dutch dish "stamppot Boerenkool met rookworst" - smashed potatoes with kale and smoked sausage.
Sunday June 8rd: refuge de Manganu - refuge de Petra Piana
Statistics:distance: 10 km
up: 980 m, down: 740 m,
weather: starts sunny, followed by fog and ends rainy.
After breakfast with porridge, we break up and continue our journey. The route first crosses the streamlet and immediately starts climbing. The climb to the small lake and Brèche de Cappitellu goes fast although the path is flooded by melting water. At the breach we enjoy the view over the lake of Cappitellu and Melu is great. Shortly after reaching the breach it is getting foggy again. Before the clouds close us in, we can see how difficult the crossing of next snow field is. Together with a couple of German and French we decide to shift the route a little so that it will go through fresh snow and will be less dangerous. Because of the snow fields and the fog this part of the route is more difficult than the cirque de Solitude. During the descent I loose sight of the GR20 marking as a result of what I descended through the streamlet and not via the route. At the refuge we find another nice spot the pitch the tent. We have to do it fast since it starts to rain.
Monday June 9th: refuge de Petra Piana - refuge de l'Onda
Statistics:distance: 8 km
up: 390 m, down: 800 m,
weather: Fog and clouds during the walk, rainshowers in the afternoon, dry in the evening.
Today we walk together with Jacqueline and Alex via the alpine variant - the former GR20. First we have to descend a little and as soon as the variant leaves the GR20 the path becomes more stony and starts climbing again a little. Because of doing this variant we have to do some more scrambling, but it gets never difficult. On the way we sometimes enjoy the views into the valley when the clouds break open. When we descend from punta di i Pinzi Curbini to Serra di Tenda Garry from Autralia who is walking alone joins us since the fog is getting more dense. Next descent to bocca d'Oreccia is not steep but long and therefore tough for your knees. Since the refuge is for free and the camping site is about 100 m lower at the bergeries, we decide to spend the night at the refuge. Because there is no water, the toilet is out of order and the stay at the refuge and on the campsite are for free. In the evening we have dinner at the bergeries. They serve a well filled soup followed by lasagne with spinnage and goat cheese. After dinner we climb up to the refuge and go to bed. Soon we know why we prefer to sleep in our own tent - snoring refuge mates.
Tuesday June 10th: refuge de l'Onda - Vizzavona
Statistics:up: 670 m, down: 1180 m,
weather: Windy at high altitudes and sunny.
Again we walk together with Jacqueline and Alex. The climb to the punta Muratellu is steep and a real pain for your legs. At the top it is windy so we stay there for a short break to enjoy the view. The first part of the descent goes over huge rock plates and is really steep, a thing I do not like. Gradually the descent becomes less steep. We have a long lunch break at the streamlet between the passerelle de Turtettu and the Cascades des Anglais. Here we see the first daytrippers, a sign that we are approaching the civilised world. After lunch we continue to descend. The descent is long and tiring, but the cascades compensate much. The final part of the descent, after passing the streamlet for another time, is really easygoing over a broad forest track. In Vizzavona after making the appointment that we will meet together again on Thursday, Jacqueline and Alex stay at a hotel and Edwin and I go to our car and drive to a campsite in Tattone. After pitching our tent at the campsite, we go to Corte to do some shopping for this evening and tomorrow. On the way back we stop at a pharmacy to buy some ointment with a painkiller inside.
Continued in part 3
Last modified August 2009